First you need to coat the part you are going to copy with a release agent. We provide both mould release wax, and pva mould release to choose from in this kit. We would suggest first applying multiple layers of wax, followed by pva sprayed on with a spraygun over the top. (You will get a better surface finish on your mould if you only use the wax, however you run the risk of your part sticking in the mould. If you choose to only use wax, make sure to give it many coats to make sure you dont miss any spots!)(you can also apply the pva with a lint free cloth)
Next you need to apply what will be the 'face of your mould'. In this kit we don't offer a tooling gelcoat as such, instead we offer an additive which, when mixed with normal laminating resin will turn it into a nice smooth thixotropic gelcoat, that cures to a hard and shiny surface. The reason for this is to keep the cost down! You can use between 2-4 times the amount of additive than resin by volume (depending on the type of resin being used). You brush this gelcoat onto your part, trying to maintain around 1 to 2mm thick coat.
Once your gelcoat has dried enough that it wont come off onto your glove, you can apply the backing to the mould. The backing is there to give strength to the gelcoat you previously put down.
You can either use the remaining resin, and chopped strand mat for this backing layer. A rule of thumb is that the mould be 4 times as thick as the parts it will produce. Or you can use the remaining resin to make a putty. It is not critical which backing system you choose, we find for nice flatish style objects then using chopped strand mat is fine, but if it is a more complicated shape where chopped strand mat would be difficult to work with, then use the putty option.
*only mix up small batches at a time (eg 30g of resin) to prevent excessive heat build up in the cup. Or for bigger batches use the slower curing resin, and a larger container to allow the resin to have more exposure to the air which will help to keep it cool.